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What do the symbols on digital cameras mean? Camera modes

Good afternoon I'm in touch with you, Timur Mustaev. How well do you know your technique? I cannot deny the importance of ideas and imagination for photography, but somewhere, perhaps, boring technical moments are indispensable.

Knowing the features of a particular camera is the key to productive interaction with it. How else can you get amazing photos? The only way. The basis of the basics can be called the ability to set the desired modes on the camera. But how to work with them correctly? We will talk about this a little, and most importantly, we will figure out what the manual mode of the camera means.

About modes in general

Modes, or shooting methods, are a very significant characteristic of a camera. They are required for all cameras. The model here does not affect this, for example, you have canon or nikon - in any case, the set of modes is more or less standard. I will quickly go over the main ones, and in more detail, of course, we will touch on the manual one.

So, on the right side of the body of photographic equipment, you can find a movable wheel with all sorts of letters and symbols. This:

Auto. And in principle, other “colorful” names of modes can be attributed here - Landscape, Portrait, Night, Children, Macro, etc. Their whole point is that the camera chooses the parameters itself, there will certainly be small differences in each, but in general they are small. And I'm almost sure that if you take pictures on a car, then you will not pay attention to the values \u200b\u200band other parameters at all. Otherwise, the mode is called - "Point and shoot!".
Software (P). In many ways it is similar to the previous one, except that you can set the ISO sensitivity yourself. Not a very big deal, I tell you, but you need to start somewhere!
. On Nikon, it is denoted by the letter A, on Canon (any, for example, Canon 600D) - Av. The f-value is determined by the photographer, and the shutter speed is determined by the camera. A convenient way to shoot when you are photographing a stationary subject or landscape.
(S - Nikon, Tv - Canon). Everything is also clear, inversely to aperture priority: choose the time. Fast or slow shutter speeds, respectively, can freeze or blur motion.
Manual (M)– beyond creative modes. All parameters are up to you!

Advantages and disadvantages of manual mode

Well, let's talk about the advantages and disadvantages of the latter mode.

Main advantage M lies in the mass of photography opportunities that you control. And this means that whatever external conditions or the specifics of the object in the frame, you can deal with them.

Moreover, the selected values will be saved. They will not jump with any change in circumstances or camera position as they do in other modes where the camera controls part of the exposure.

One of the shortcomings, or rather a natural consequence of the first statement, is that if you are a beginner and poorly versed in the camera, then self-tuning the camera will not do anything and may completely confuse you.

Also, as you might expect, manual mode takes more time, because until you evaluate the circumstances, until you set everything up.

Therefore, it cannot be called mobile in any way, especially with constantly changing lighting, weather or shooting location.

Practice for beginners

Experienced photographers, of course, do not have a question how to use M. Although it is not always a priority in work. I personally often use the aperture mode, but when I'm in no hurry and want to achieve the perfect picture, I'm happy to fiddle with all the available options, choosing the right values.

This mode is always used when photographing in the studio.

Getting started with manual mode can be difficult. Seeing the main parameters on the screen, do not rush to change everything at once. Assess the conditions: what time of day, how sunny, and adjust the ISO.

Next, decide on the purpose of filming, what is important to photograph. So, if you need to make a portrait of a girl, then adjust the aperture, and then the shutter speed. In a situation of freezing a moving object, it is definitely more important to determine the shutter speed: focus on 1/800 sec. and below, 1/1000 and so on. To blur the background around a moving object, on the contrary, the time should increase, 1/400 and so on.

Pay all attention to the built-in exposure meter, which you will notice in the viewfinder. Ideally, the small arrow should be at 0 - this is a normally exposed picture, if it deviates to the left or right, it will be under- or overexposed.

When is manual mode useful?

I want to give a few examples where manual mode would be useful.

Shooting in low ambient light or at night without flash. The camera will not be able to take an adequate picture in any other mode than the manual - it will have too little light. The photographer, on the other hand, can set even the lowest values, at which the exposure meter will simply go off scale, but the camera will take a picture. The resulting image can be brightened using exposure compensation or already in post-processing. In this case, shooting sunsets, an exact or evening city, and so on can serve as an example.
In studios. With it is necessary to synchronize the camera through a special device, synchronizers. And this synchronization is most often done thanks to a predetermined aperture, shutter speed and ISO.
Special lenses are manual lenses that have problems transmitting aperture information from the camera.
Creating high-resolution HDR images, that is, the picture in this case consists of several others, taken with different parameters. Manual mode is also useful here if you are a professional and know what kind of photo you want to get in the end.

I wonder what other parameters can be configured manually? If you carefully look at the menu, you can find a lot of interesting things.

Various cool chips are available even to owners of soap dishes or not very expensive DSLRs, for example, Nikon d3100 and its series. We must use every opportunity to somehow improve our frame, make it unique. Settings help us!

Here we can distinguish the following: according to Kelvin, brightness and saturation at the photographing stage, area and location of the focus point, etc. But these are completely different articles.

Conclusion

How about manual mode? Difficult? In the beginning, it's always like this, don't be discouraged, now I'll tell you a little trick to better understand this mode.

Pick up something you would like to photograph. For this example, conditions are not important, you shoot at home or on the street. Set the camera to Auto mode, but without the flash, it is also on the wheel, only marked with a crossed out lightning bolt. It is advisable to fix the camera.

You can use the table. Place an object at one end and a camera at the other. The distance between them should be within 1 meter.

Aim the camera at the subject and press the shutter button halfway so that the camera focuses on the subject, but do not press all the way. Either in the visor (the eye where you look in a SLR camera), or values, shutter speeds, apertures, ISO will appear on the screen. Write them down. After recording the data, you can press the button to the end and take a picture, let it be your option.

We switch to M mode, set the settings that you recorded and take a picture. Let's see how it turned out. Next, we start experimenting. If the picture is dark, you can open the aperture, i.e. put a value less than 5.6, 4.0, 3.5. Or increase the shutter speed, 1/400, 1/200, 1/100 and so on.

If, on the contrary, the photo turned out to be bright, do the opposite actions of the aperture and shutter speed. Try not to touch the ISO, but it's better to bring it to 100 and practice with shutter speed and aperture.

But remember, the smaller the aperture value, the smaller it is!

If you want to develop in the field of photography and learn how to do it well, you need to fully master the manual mode. I can also recommend a good video course below. It details what it can do. reflex camera. Many tricks and secrets of photography are revealed. Everything is shown in examples. Everything is explained in a very accessible and understandable way. I recommend!

Digital SLR for beginners 2.0- for owners of a NIKON SLR camera.

My first MIRROR- for owners of a CANON SLR camera.

See you! Dear readers, do not be too lazy to study your camera. And my blog will help you with this! In order not to miss anything useful, subscribe to the update. Share with your friends, I will be very grateful.

All the best to you, Timur Mustaev.

Manual and semi-automatic modes of the camera, in contrast to the scenery modes of the green zone, allow the photographer to use the resources of the camera as efficiently as possible. On the technical side, in all programs of work, the camera is always guided by the principle of reciprocity of exposure parameters.

Automatic operating modes

In the "green zone" modes, most of the camera parameters are not available for editing, and the camera works according to the program embedded in it, with the lowest possible settings available to the user. The well-known phrase “In the green zone, the camera works at 30 percent of its capabilities” appeared for a reason - despite the availability of the CZK menu in scene modes, often the image quality in them does not cause any admiration, since the camera program, in itself, without the possibility of adjustment, far from ideal.

Switching between modes is done by turning the main control dial of the camera. Icons corresponding to the mode are marked on the disk.

There are several green zone modes on Canon SLR cameras:

Portrait. In this mode, the camera tries to set the lens aperture to the maximum open value, as this allows you to perfectly separate the subject from the background.

Scenery. IN landscape photography uses a large depth of field (aperture values from f/5.6) at a shutter speed of at least 1/focal length of the lens.

Sport. As a rule, the sports mode involves shooting moving objects. With manual control of parameters, the maximum short exposure, and an aperture that allows you to separate the background from the object in these conditions. The camera in automatic mode, in addition, connects the object tracking mode.

No flash. Shooting in automatic mode, with the flash turned off (recommended for use in museums, zoos).

Night portrait. Long exposure at an open aperture and high ISO. Due to possible shaking, it is better to use stabilization (tripod, etc.)

Auto. Fully automatic shooting mode. The camera according to the program, depending on the current lighting conditions, will decide for itself which exposure pair to choose. A very dubious mode in terms of output quality, especially if shooting is in JPEG.

Macro. In macro mode, the camera tries to increase the depth of field, shooting is carried out at the minimum possible distance from the lens (not less than the minimum focusing distance).

Custom Creative Mode (CA). In this mode, the camera allows you to further change the shooting atmosphere (tint the image). Otherwise, the same machine.

You can use these modes at the very beginning of your photographic journey, they are well described in the names of the modes themselves, or you can try to figure out the camera settings and start taking technically more advanced pictures.

Manual and semi-automatic modes

Manual and semi-automatic modes of operation of the camera are also programs embedded in the camera. Unlike scenario modes, they have b O more controllable parameters, and are used, thanks to this, in a variety of photography conditions. There are few such modes:

Aperture Priority (Aperture Value - A, Av)

Shutter Priority, Time Value - S, Tv

Program machine (Program AE - P)

Manual Mode (M)

Freehand shooting mode

A number of modern cameras also have camera modes in which all user-set parameters (Custom, C1, C2, C3) are saved.

Aperture priority (A, Av)

In this mode, the photographer can change the diameter of the aperture aperture of the lens. The camera adjusts the required shutter speed based on the current aperture value. This mode is usually used to control the depth of field in the resulting image. For example, when shooting portraits.

On most reflex cameras Canon aperture priority mode is convenient for using manual optics.

Shutter priority (S, Tv)

In this mode, the camera selects the aperture value based on the shutter speed set by the photographer. You can use it, for example, when shooting fast moving objects (birds, cars, and so on), or vice versa, if you need to open the shutter for a long time (shooting the starry sky from a tripod). Also, shutter priority is used in dynamic lighting conditions, and when there is no need (or opportunity) to think about depth of field.

Photo taken in shutter priority. Canon 1Ds and Jupiter-37A

Program machine (P)

In the programmable machine, the camera works almost like in automatic mode. The difference is that it is possible to change the combination of the exposure pair, set the metering parameters, and the sensitivity to light. Exposure compensation is also available.

The program machine can be inconvenient because the camera position often differs from the user’s position: when shooting, for example, moving objects, the automation often sets the exposure one to three stops lower than necessary, since the calculation is based on lighting data, and not happening around 🙂

The software machine, in principle, allows you to take good shots.

Manual mode (M)

In the manual mode of the camera, the photographer can play with the settings as he needs - it is possible to change the shutter speed, aperture, metering mode, sensor light sensitivity, exposure compensation, and others. The camera displays only the exposure meter readings.

Manual mode is typically used in difficult electronics environments. For example, when all possible methods of exposure metering do not bring the proper result, or it is necessary to take a picture of a moving object with a very shallow depth of field. Well, or in night shooting.

The picture was taken in manual mode.

Freehand shooting mode

Bulb shooting mode (BULB) is a mode for controlling the camera shutter manually. Used, for example, when taking pictures of the starry sky, or in other situations where manual shutter control is necessary. In this mode, the shutter opens when the shutter button is pressed and closes when it is released. Previously, in film cameras, this mode was used to work with non-synchronized flash lamps, hence the name - BULB (lamp).

Also found

A-DEP- Depth of field control mode. The user uses the button on the body of the camera (usually the DOF button) to indicate the “from” and “to” points for setting the depth of field, and the camera already “adjusts” the exposure parameters. The mode is found in digital SLR cameras Canon EOS Digital. Exposure compensation is also available in this mode.

Sv— light sensitivity priority mode. It works like a software machine, only the camera also sets the sensitivity of the matrix.

TAv- exposure priority mode. In it, the camera selects the necessary matrix light sensitivity based on the exposure / exposure parameters set by the user.

Sv and TAv modes are found in Pentax cameras. They are not used in Canon and Nikon, since it is possible to auto-adjust the ISO (Auto ISO) in any of the semi-automatic modes.

What camera modes to use

As you may have understood, there are no universal modes. The most versatile mode is Photographer Experience. And experience, as you know, comes through the study of theory and practice. However, with an accuracy of 146 percent, I can assure you that when you leave the “green zone” and after a little practice, you will later want to re-shoot everything that you “shot” on the machine.

Ask questions in the comments.

95% of my friends, when buying a SLR camera, use only automatic shooting mode with preset scenes: portrait, landscape, macro, etc. At most, some of them, once in a lifetime, turn on the manual mode, and without understanding anything in it, they turn it off forever.

But is this auto mode so good - let's figure it out? The more you use the camera, the more you realize that the scope of auto shooting is not enough for you. Not always, for example, auto mode can clearly cope with shooting in places with poor lighting. Let's figure it out.

As a rule, in all SLR cameras, in addition to the automatic mode with scene programs, there are 4 more modes that involve the direct participation of the photographer in setting the frame. Let's consider them in more detail.

“P” programmed auto mode.

By and large, this is the same automatic shooting mode. The only thing is that you can adjust some parameters: white balance, matrix sensitivity, jpeg settings, etc.

Application: Used when there is no time for manual settings when you want to take a quick shot. This mode is useful for beginner amateur photographers. This is a smooth transition from auto to more manual modes.

“S” is shutter priority mode.

The photographer sets the shutter speed and the camera sets the aperture (f).

Application: This mode is used when you need to emphasize the movement in the frame. The effect of "motion blur" at slow shutter speeds, or the subject is clearly fixed at short exposures. This mode is great for shooting sports and domestic events, fountains, water, cars, etc.

In this mode, as a rule, the clarity of the background suffers.

"A" aperture priority mode.

Unlike “ S" mode, here you already set the aperture value, and the camera selects the shutter speed. According to many photographers, this is the most convenient shooting mode. Aperture values are smaller than shutter speed values. Aperture control is much easier.

Application: Suitable for portraits (1.2-2.8 min aperture), landscapes (16-22) and static macro.

"M" manual shooting mode.

The photographer manually sets all parameters. If you want to become a real pro, you need to work and experiment with this mode. In this mode, you can take absolutely any pictures. The only drawback of the manual mode is time. While you are adjusting the camera, you may miss a frame.

Application: Ideal for night shooting and studio photo sessions. In manual mode, you can experiment, for example, deliberately overexposing the frame, etc.

No matter how long you have your digital camera, there is always something to learn. And if you've just bought your first DSLR, the learning curve can seem incredibly daunting.

But this should not scare you and discourage you from working. In this article, we'll help you get the most out of your DSLR by explaining the features of some key functions, which are in almost every model.

Learning camera functions and controls early on in your exposure to photography will help you avoid some common mistakes, which will make your photos look better and more beautiful.

Front panel of the camera body

1. Red-eye reduction lamp

To prevent red-eye from appearing in the frame, you need a light source that will compensate for the glare from the flash. This lamp is such a light source. The lamp also acts as a convenient indicator for countdown self-timer.

2. Focus ring

In auto focus mode, this ring rotates until the camera focuses on the subject. In manual focus mode, you can turn the ring yourself and focus on the desired shooting point.

3. Zoom ring

Rotate the ring clockwise to zoom out and get a wide angle shot. Turning the ring counterclockwise will bring the subject closer and give you close-up removed object.

4. Flash button

When shooting in semi-automatic or manual mode, you have the option to turn on the built-in flash. To do this, click this button.

5. Focus mode switch

Here you can set the AF (autofocus) mode if you want the camera to focus on its own. You can also switch to MF (manual focus) mode, in which case you will control the focus yourself. In manual focus mode, you can use the autofocus points in the viewfinder to tell you exactly what your camera is concentrating on.

6. Image stabilization switch

IS (Image Stabilizer) lenses are designed to prevent blur caused by camera shake (especially noticeable when you focus on a distant subject). Nikon lenses have a similar VR (vibration reduction) switch.

7.Built-in microphone

Most cameras like the Canon 500D (pictured above) can now record video. Audio for these videos is recorded through the built-in microphone.

8. Depth of field and preview button

By clicking on this button, you can see what your frame will look like with these settings.

Rear panel of the camera body

1. Exposure compensation button

In. While in manual mode, hold down this button and rotate the main command dial to open or close the aperture.

2. Focus point selection

Press this button and then rotate the channel selector to select the camera's AF point to use.

3. Exposure lock button

This button allows you to lock the exposure. You can also use it to zoom out when viewing a picture on the LCD monitor in playback mode. It also allows you to focus the camera when using Live View.

4. Live view

Click here to see what the camera will capture on the LCD screen. The newest cameras have a Live View feature that eliminates the need to view the scene through the viewfinder.

5. Four control buttons

These buttons allow you to navigate through the camera's menus and submenus. Also, each button allows you to get into a specific settings menu. Thus, the buttons provide fast access to popular features such as WB (white balance) or AF (autofocus).

6. Self-timer

This button allows you to change the shooting mode on the camera and set the timer shooting.

7. Play button

The play button allows you to view the pictures you have taken.

8. Delete button

The button with the universal trash can symbol allows you to delete files that you, while viewing on the display, decide to get rid of.

9. Menu button

Pressing this button will give you access to a wide range of menus and submenus where you can change the settings to suit your requirements.

Top panel of the camera

1. Built-in flash

When you're shooting in low light, the built-in flash can help you get a decent shot. In some modes, you will need to turn it on manually. In scene modes, the flash fires automatically.

2. Shutter button

This button is required to take a picture. By pressing the button halfway, you will be able to focus, or activate auto focus. When fully pressed, the camera will take a picture.

3. Main dial

Rotating this dial allows you to manually set the camera's aperture or shutter speed.

4.ISO button

By pressing this button you can adjust the ISO sensitivity. You can then use the main command dial to increase or decrease the ISO level. You also have the option to set the ISO manually using the appropriate menu item.

5. On/off button

This will allow you to turn off the camera when not in use (although it will automatically go to sleep after 30 seconds of inactivity).

6. Mode dial

On the mode dial, you can set the desired shooting mode. The disc contains all possible scene modes, semi-automatic and manual mode.

7. Hot shoe

Using a SLR camera, you will be able to set the flash as additional source Sveta. An external flash is usually more powerful and easier to control.

Top Reasons to Buy a Universal 35mm Lens

The history of luxury 35mm lens goes back to the early days of photography. This is one of the best lenses ever made, with a brilliant focal length that can be applied to any photograph. Whether on a full frame or cropped camera, this lens has its own added value.

35mm optics dominate not only in the world of photography, but also in cinema. In the days of film cameras, "35mm" was the width of the film used. Later, this format was adapted for photography and has not lost popularity since then.

During the First World War, 35 mm was widely used in Leica cameras, which were mainly used for outstanding military shots.

And now, let's look at the various factors that speak in favor of this lens.

Why is a 35mm lens useful?

In this article, we list the top reasons why you should get a 35mm lens if you don't already have one:

· This is ideal for shooting while walking, if you want to photograph everything you see.

· It is much more versatile than any other optic option. It also outperforms the 50mm lens as you get a wider and more varied perspective with it.

This type of optics gives a fairly wide-angle coverage on a full frame, as well as on a camera with a “cropped” matrix.

· At f/1.4, this lens is the fastest lens in its category and lets in a lot of light when wide open. Therefore, it is good when shooting in difficult conditions with insufficient lighting.

· The 35mm focal length draws you in to your subject. Therefore, it is suitable for street photography, and for portrait shooting, when the subject becomes especially important.

· This lens can be enough for you to shoot landscapes.

· With this lens, you can get close to your subject as the minimum focusing distance is much shorter than other range lenses. focal lengths above 35 mm.

· It is a miniature lens with a low weight, which means it will not burden you too much, and you can almost always take it with you.

· Such a lens, as a rule, is the most frequently used and quickly self-sustaining.

· With an aperture of f/1.4, it allows you to create excellent portraits with wonderful bokeh.

Has a large maximum aperture, sold by inexpensive price and has multiple uses.

5 things you need to know about DSLRs

Buying a camera is the most important choice for every photographer. This article provides 5 criteria to help you choose the camera that is right for you. It will be about the resolution of the matrix, shooting modes, user interface, and much more that you should know when choosing.

The world of photography has rediscovered itself with the advent of digital technologies. Gone are the days when only the elite could do photography, people with big money. Now almost everyone can afford to buy a camera.

You can talk a lot about convenience compact cameras, but for optimal image quality, and limitless creative possibilities, only a real semi or professional camera will do.
The rise in popularity and affordability of SLR cameras is fueling fierce competition among major camera manufacturers such as Canon, Nikon, Pentax and Sony.

This state of affairs is extremely beneficial for consumers, as camera manufacturers strive to constantly improve their product by introducing new innovative features into cameras that increase their performance and improve image quality, while making DSLRs easier to use. But what are the key factors to consider when choosing a camera? This is what we will talk about today.

Benefits of SLR cameras

The advantages of DSLRs over more compact cameras are numerous and varied - first of all, this is the size of the image sensor. Many compact cameras can have the same or even more megapixels than a DSLR, but resolution per se is not the key to image quality, so don't forget that!

Image sensors in DSLRs are physically larger than in compact cameras, and this makes a significant difference in image quality. First, a larger sensor means more pixels, which individually capture more light. This, in turn, greatly reduces digital image noise and graininess that can occur when shooting at high ISO speeds.

Secondly, the larger sensor allows for shallower depth of field, which means you can get beautiful bokeh and nice background blur that will look great in macro photography and portraits.

Another important advantage is that the DSLR allows you to see the world through the lens as it will later be in the picture.

Ideal Camera

A DSLR is more comfortable to use, manual zoom and focus rings on the lens allow you to focus with much greater accuracy and get the shot you were aiming for.
In addition, when you buy a SLR camera, you open up a whole world of possibilities and discoveries, you get a whole system. You will have the opportunity to buy and change lenses, and various accessories that will make the creative process more enjoyable and productive. On the other hand, when buying a compact, you limit yourself to only one camera, which in a year, at most, will not be enough for you.

Today we will dwell in more detail on the main fundamental differences between different types of SLR and compact cameras, as a result of which, you can make right choice, depending on the type of camera you want to purchase.
Body design and new features of SLR cameras.

Most DSLRs are built on the basis of their predecessors, but unlike previous models, the new models offer many innovative improvements.

Shooting modes

All DSLRs generally have the usual set of modes, which includes auto, manual, aperture priority, shutter speed priority, and modes corresponding to different types scenes. So-called scene modes are available on cameras designed specifically for beginners, such as the Canon EOS 60D and Nikon D3100. The same modes are available on compact cameras. Mode selection most often occurs through the wheel on the top of the camera.

LCD display

The LCD display is important not only for menu access, digital camera, it is also the main way to view the footage, to check the accuracy and sharpness of the frame.
Relatively inexpensive cameras such as the Canon EOS 1100D often have a low LCD resolution of around 230K pixels, while high-end models such as the Canon EOS 60D can have a resolution of 1,040,000 pixels.

Mirror

The main difference between a DSLR and a compact is that a DSLR has a mirror assembly that reflects the image from the lens up into the optical viewfinder, allowing you to see a very precise focus and zoom position.

autofocus
More autofocus points allow you to focus on the subject as accurately as possible, while such cameras have several points that allow you to track randomly moving objects in continuous autofocus mode.

Inexpensive models of SLR cameras usually have nine or eleven autofocus points, while more sophisticated models have more autofocus points. For example, the Nikon D800 has 51 focus points.

ISO sensitivity

Sensitivity has improved a lot with many DSLRs in recent times. The maximum ISO level has been increased, which means that you can now photograph in low light conditions much more productively. Increasing the ISO makes the sensor more sensitive to light, allowing the camera to capture even the weakest of the sun's rays without having to use slow shutter speeds.

The higher the ISO value you use, the higher the sensitivity, but as the sensitivity increases, the level of digital noise increases. Older models such as the Canon EOS 1000D typically have a maximum ISO of 1600, while modern models, such as the Canon EOS 1100D, offer much higher sensitivities, around 6400 in the standard range, with the option to expand to 12800 ISO.

Professional full-frame models such as the Nikon D4 allow you to shoot at up to ISO 24,800. Improved sensors, combined with advanced image processors, make it possible to take great photos with little noise, even at high ISO settings.

Number of megapixels

The number of megapixels is often the first criterion that not very experienced amateur photographers pay attention to when purchasing their camera. In fact, resolution does not play the first role in choosing a camera.

What resolution is desired? The first SLR cameras were equipped with matrices with a resolution of about 6 megapixels. This seems to be an extremely low resolution compared to today's standards, but even this was enough to get decent A3 photos.

To date, the smallest resolution among DSLRs is equipped with a 12.1 MPix matrix. and its latest full-frame model, the D800, features a 36.3 megapixel sensor.

A few years ago, Canon had the highest resolution cameras, but now the company is playing catch-up with other companies, cameras APS-C sensor have a resolution of 12.2 megapixels. (for 1100D) up to 18 MPix. (in the 600D, 60D and 7D), the full-frame camera is equipped with a 16.1 megapixel sensor (in the 1D Mk IV), as well as 22.3 megapixels. (for the new 5D Mk III).

However, Nikon's flagship D4 full-frame DSLR costs around £5,000 and has a resolution of "only" 16.6 megapixels.

creative cropping

Higher resolution images allow you to crop the image as much as you like. For example, if with a telescopic zoom, you didn’t get the object as large as you wanted, having a camera with a high resolution matrix, you can crop your picture without losing quality, thereby bringing the object closer.

In this case, another problem may arise, this is the quality of the optics. If the quality of the camera lens is not high enough, you risk getting chromatic aberration (color fringing) in your image.

File sizes

The high resolution of the photos indicates the large weight of the images, especially if you are photographing in RAW format. For example, RAW images taken with the EOS 600D or 7D can be around 25MB, while an image of the same format taken with the Nikon D90 and D300S will be around 10MB.

This means not only that your memory card will fill up faster, but also that the camera may run more slowly when shooting continuously.

Noise level

Very often, camera manufacturers supply their camera with a high-resolution sensor, while the physical dimensions of the sensor are insufficient, as a result, the matrix does not capture much light, and grain appears. Especially strongly, noise begins to appear when shooting at high ISO values.

By developing the latest sensors and image processors, manufacturers strive to minimize noise levels.

Capturing video with a camera

Until recently, video recording was only available on compact cameras. With the advent of Live View, which allows you to take pictures using the LCD rather than through the viewfinder, means more and more DSLRs boast high definition (HD) and video capabilities.

Evolution

The functionality of the first SLR cameras was quite narrow. Video recording, in general, initially appeared on more professional models such as the Canon EOS 5D Mark II, and only over time began to appear on the entry-level Nikon D3200 and Canon EOS 650D models.

Considering how quickly video recording capabilities have evolved among other companies, Sony has lagged a little behind in terms of the level of its cameras, precisely in this parameter. But models like the A580 and SLT A55 have taken the company to new heights, and now Sony's products can compete not only in picture quality, but also in video quality.

HD formats

DSLRs have improved with the times, so cameras released a year or two ago tend to offer high quality video and 720p resolution. The 720p format is progressive, that is, each frame is created through one pass.

By comparison, at 720i (interlaced), a frame is created by scanning two alternating lines (half-frames). The latest cameras are usually capable of recording Full HD high-definition video at 1080p resolution.

Frame frequency

A range of frame rates, including 24, 25, 30 and 50fps (frames per second), allows you to create video files that are as good as those created on a camcorder. The video quality can meet the standards of film and television around the world.

This is becoming especially important as DSLRs are increasingly being used to shoot professional video for TV commercials and video clips. Considering that the size of the sensor increases, which means that background blur becomes more noticeable, then operators can achieve excellent depth of field in their videos.

sharpness

One of the main problems that arise when recording video on SLR cameras is autofocus. To create the clearest possible video, good tracking autofocus is essential. The Canon EOS 650D is the first entry-level DSLR to offer fast, accurate autofocus when shooting video.

Viewfinder

A good viewfinder is essential for creating beautiful photos. It is important not only for accurate photo composition, but also for greater accuracy when it comes to adjusting focus.

pentamirror

Cheaper entry-level DSLRs like the Canon 1100D and even some of the more expensive models, including the Canon EOS 650D and Nikon D5200, use a penta-reflex viewfinder. They are cheaper to produce and lighter in weight than pentaprism. Such a viewfinder is created from a set consisting of three separate mirrors.

The main disadvantages of penta-mirror viewfinders based on digital SLR cameras is that the image they convey is a little darker and more gloomy, and may lack image contrast a little. Of course, this does not affect the quality of the created image, but simply distorts the picture that you see through the viewfinder. Without knowing about such distortions, you may not fine-tune your camera, and as a result, get an image that is not what you expected to see.

Pentaprism

The pentaprism viewfinder is considered the best viewfinder for cameras for a reason. More expensive and professional cameras are equipped with a pentaprism viewfinder, such as Canon EOS 60D and EOS 7D, Nikon D7000 and D300s, and all full frame cameras such as Nikon D600 and Canon EOS 6D.

The pentaprism viewfinder is made of five single-sided glass blocks, the pentaprism reflects the image onto the mirror twice, creating an accurate image of reality. A pentaprism viewfinder is relatively heavy and more expensive than a pentamirror viewfinder, but you get higher quality and brighter images as a result.

Electronic

For compact cameras that do not have a built-in optical or electronic viewfinder (EVF), a special electronic device is often used, thanks to which an external viewfinder can be connected to a camera such as Olympus.

Additional slot EVFs, most often of the hot shoe type, the mount is located on the top of the camera, such a viewfinder is often quite expensive, its cost is around £150 (up to £200). Another disadvantage of an external viewfinder is that it cannot be used simultaneously with external flash, which is attached through the same hot shoe.

Review

Ideally, the field of view should be 100%, meaning you see the image through the viewfinder the same size as it would be captured on the camera, but often not. Many viewfinders, especially cheaper ones like PentaSLRs, tend to only give 95% of the field of view, so you won't be able to see everything that ends up in the photo.

In practice, this is not a big problem, you can even find some advantages in this. So, you will always have a little extra space around the edges, which can come in handy when leveling the horizon (rotating the image a few degrees)
Good, pentaprism viewfinders give about 98% of field of view, and the best ones provide full 100% field of view.

Zoom

Of great importance is zooming, and the possibility of maximizing the approximation of the image. For example, the Canon EOS 550D only offers a 0.87x magnification, while the Canon EOS 7D gives a direct zoom of 1.0x.

Performance

Photography of moving objects, or in reportage photography, it is very convenient to shoot in continuous shooting mode, so this criterion is also important when choosing good camera. In addition, a high frame rate can be very useful in portraiture, allowing you to capture a fleeting facial expression.

Continuous Shooting

By switching the camera to continuous shooting mode, the camera will continue to shoot as long as you keep your finger on the shutter button. Memory buffer limitations limit the ability to record images. Cameras such as the Canon EOS 1100D and Nikon D3100 can only shoot three frames per second, while flagship cameras such as Canon's EOS-1D X are capable of up to 12 frames per second (or 14 frames per second if shooting in JPEG format).

Mid-range cameras such as the Canon EOS 7D are capable of shooting at 8 fps, while the Nikon D300S shoots at 7 fps, this speed can be increased to 8 fps by attaching the optional MB-D10 Battery Grip.

Computing power

To have the most high speed shooting, cameras must have high processing power so that they can process all the images in rapid succession. Imaging chips in latest cameras are generally much more powerful than older models. Some cameras, such as the high-speed Canon EOS 7D, are actually equipped with two image processors, giving them even more performance.

Front panel of the camera body

1. Red-eye reduction lamp

To prevent red-eye from appearing in the frame, you need a light source that will compensate for the glare from the flash. This lamp is such a light source. The lamp also acts as a handy self-timer countdown indicator.

2. Focus ring

In auto focus mode, this ring rotates until the camera focuses on the subject. In manual focus mode, you can turn the ring yourself and focus on the desired shooting point.

3. Zoom ring

Rotate the ring clockwise to zoom out and get a wide angle shot. Turning the ring counterclockwise will bring the subject closer and give you a close-up of the subject.

4. Flash button

When shooting in semi-automatic or manual mode, you have the option to turn on the built-in flash. To do this, click this button.

5. Focus mode switch

6. Image stabilization switch

7.Built-in microphone

Most cameras like the Canon 500D (pictured above) can now record video. Audio for these videos is recorded through the built-in microphone.

8. Depth of field and preview button

By clicking on this button, you can see what your frame will look like with these settings.

Rear panel of the camera body

1. Exposure compensation button

In. While in manual mode, hold down this button and rotate the main command dial to open or close the aperture.

2. Focus point selection

Press this button and then rotate the channel selector to select the camera's AF point to use.

3. Exposure lock button

This button allows you to lock the exposure. You can also use it to zoom out when viewing a picture on the LCD monitor in playback mode. It also allows you to focus the camera when using Live View.

4. Live view

Click here to see what the camera will capture on the LCD screen. The newest cameras have a Live View feature that eliminates the need to view the scene through the viewfinder.

5. Four control buttons

These buttons allow you to navigate through the camera's menus and submenus. Also, each button allows you to get into a specific settings menu. Thus, the buttons provide quick access to popular functions such as WB (white balance) or AF (autofocus).

6. Self-timer

This button allows you to change the shooting mode on the camera and set the timer shooting.

7. Play button

The play button allows you to view the pictures you have taken.

8. Delete button

The button with the universal trash can symbol allows you to delete files that you, while viewing on the display, decide to get rid of.

9. Menu button

Pressing this button will give you access to a wide range of menus and submenus where you can change the settings to suit your requirements.

Top panel of the camera

1. Built-in flash

When you're shooting in low light, the built-in flash can help you get a decent shot. In some modes, you will need to turn it on manually. In scene modes, the flash fires automatically.

2. Shutter button

This button is required to take a picture. By pressing the button halfway, you will be able to focus, or activate auto focus. When fully pressed, the camera will take a picture.

3. Main dial

Rotating this dial allows you to manually set the camera's aperture or shutter speed.